The Marshall Islands are an exquisite, remote getaway. By Dutch Small Photography Courtesy Marshall Islands Visitors Authority	click here to see photo page
I love to travel. I especially like to go to places that few people have ever been and tell my adventure stories to everyone I meet, secretly thinking that I'm especially cool for all of the stamps in my passport. Looking over a route map for Continental Airlines one day, I noticed service to a little dot in the middle of the Pacific Ocean about 2,500 miles west of Hawaii called the Marshall Islands. As a scuba diver, I was already familiar with most of the countries in the region such as Yap, Kosrae, and Chuuk, all popular and famous dive spots, but I was looking for something obscure and fabulous for this vacation. After scouring the Internet for hours and finding very little information, I resorted to a LonelyPlanet.com guide for Micronesia, which is a collection of island nations in the Pacific that encompasses the Marshall Islands. People from the Melanesian Island group originally settled the islands about 3,000 years ago. The Spanish were the first Europeans to visit in the 16th century. Over the next 400 years, the islands were visited by the British (the nation is named after British Captain John Marshall), and occupied by the Germans, the Japanese and the United States. However, they have not yet been discovered by the travel industry. Perfect! I booked my itinerary and packed my bags. After 17 hours of traveling, I landed in Majuro, the capital and most populous city of the Marshall Islands. Looking out the windows on each side of the plane, all you see is ocean until the last second before touching down. My heart was steeped in excitement from the first glance at the glow-in-the-day blue water. I arrived during the dry season, which lasts from January through March, and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The temperature is steady year round, with daily highs in the 80s and lows in the mid 70s. Severe weather is very rare. The best season for scuba diving is May through October, when the water is calmest. As I exited the airport on the way to the hotel, lines of Marshallese people stood along the road smiling and waving. I gazed out the window with my mouth wide open. Each tile of this tropical mosaic vies for attention. I found myself entranced by the endless blue sky, bright equatorial sun, deep crystal clear blue water, abundant coconut trees, wide empty beaches, and kind-hearted natives. This is a destination for people who love to sit alone on the beach, catch big fish, and/or go scuba diving. I couldn't wait to get in. My first morning at the resort, I was greeted in the restaurant by Jerry, the dive master and owner of Bako Divers. After a friendly visit over breakfast, we toured his facility. This guy runs a first rate operation. He has the best equipment available and it is all brand new. We boarded the dive boat and set out for a day of diving. As we made our way across the lagoon to the dive spot, called The Aquarium, Jerry boastfully said "this is my office." I put on my gear and glanced into the water. I guessed it was about 10 feet deep, with every detail on the floor clearly visible from the surface. I always get excited with anticipation the second before I jump in for my first dive. Left foot forward, I stepped in and was astonished. The water was clear as glass--and 40 feet deep--and 80-something degrees. Without wetsuits, we descended along the coral wall to 90 feet. Still warm as bathwater, I looked up into the sky and could distinctly see clouds. Magical. There are hundreds of species of coral, over 250 species of reef fish and all five of the world's species of marine turtles. Though I didn't see one myself, a fisherman told me that whale sharks are common. Two Marshall Islands locations--Bikini Atoll and Arno Atoll--are listed among the top 10 dive spots in the world by several international scuba magazines. Arno is the closest atoll to Majuro, less than an hour away by boat. There you'll find schools of sharks, barracuda and millions of other fish in countless variety. Bikini Atoll, has some of the world's best wreck diving and the world's only diveable aircraft carrier as a result of U.S. nuclear testing at Bikini in the 1950s. Radiation levels are reportedly well within the safe zone at Bikini, and because Bikini is hundreds of miles from Arno and Majuro, unsafe radiation levels were never an issue at those two locations. Being so remote and untouched, I could tell that there hadn't been many divers before me at these atolls, with many areas still completely unexplored. Certainly, there are beautiful places that are more easily accessible from the continental U.S., but they're mostly overrun with tourists, or are politically unstable. This place is special. I stayed at the best hotel in the country: the Outrigger Marshall Islands Resort. It is the lap of luxury by Marshallese standards. Every room has air conditioning, filtered water, a warm shower and a television. Being the finest resort, you could easily spot the king or the president or other local dignitaries dining beside you. Riding in the car back to the airport, I could feel a lump in my throat. Desperate to stay, my mind ran through a thousand scenarios: start a coconut farm, volunteer as a school teacher, convert and become a missionary. No, I guess I have to go home. Watching out the window as Majuro passed by, I noticed that everyone was smiling. I smiled back. I left the Marshall Islands with not only a great tan, but also a warm heart. Dutch Small is H&FSM's marketing manager and resident adventure seeker. The Independent Adventurer The Marshall Islands are for people who can overlook minor shortcomings in services in exchange for a life-changing experience in a fascinating exotic paradise. To make your adventure truly your own, we offer the following resource guide to give you control over your vacation destiny: Currency: U.S. Dollar Visa requirements: Visas are not required for any visitor staying less than 30 days. Cost of a cab: Fifty cents. There is no point in renting a car. Time zone: 12 hours ahead of Greenwhich Mean Time. One day ahead of the U.S. Credit Cards: Visa, Mastercard, and American Express are widely accepted. Medical facilities: Modern medical facilities are available Medical precautions: Don't drink the water outside of the hotel or take a chance with ice. Accommodations in Majuro: I stayed at The Outrigger Marshall Islands Resort and highly recommend it to anyone. The prices are reasonable and the amenities are exceptional for a third world country. 800-OUTRIGGER. www.outrigger.com. For a cheap alternative that is, believe me, a significant step down: The Flame Tree/Backpacker's Hostel. journal@ntamar.com. Other activities: Sport fishing is one of the favorite activities of visitors to the Marshall Islands. To charter a boat, here are some important numbers: Clyde Heine: 692-625-3369 Ronnie Reimers: 692-625-3250 James Bing: 692-625-3133 Speak the Language Many Marshallese speak English well, but it's always kind and appreciated to familiarize yourself with a few important phrases: Hello, goodbye, love--Iokwe Thank you very much--Kommool tata Beach--Iar Boat, canoe, car--Wa Swim--Tutu Scuba dive, snorkel--Tulok Sightsee--Alwoj How much does it cost?--Jete onean? What's your name?--Etam? My name is Dutch--Eta in Dutch I'm a good looking woman/man--Na likatu/lakatu Where is the beer?--Ewi pia eo? Resources Bako Divers: www.bakodivers.com Marshall Islands Visitors Authority: www.visitmarshallislands.com Bikini Atoll information: www.bikiniatoll.com LonelyPlanet: www.lonelyplanet.com Majuro (MAJ) is serviced from Honolulu (HNL) by Continental Airlines and Aloha Airlines. Due to the sporadic schedule, I found it easier to call. Continental Airlines: 800-231-0856. www.continental.com Aloha Airlines: 800-432-7117. www.alohaairlines.com